fashion • 31 Mar, 2017
Our Favourite Looks From Style & Trend SS17
Here’s what happened last night
This year’s Spring Summer Style & Trend show was held at the Grand Palace Convention Center, with 9 collections from 8 designers and 1 collective. The show was soundtracked by AAMixtape contributor Dan Nguyen, who provided a fittingly enigmatic soundscape for each collection. Visual artist Cao Hoang Long, a regular Chaosdowntown collaborator provided the visual backdrop. Here’s the breakdown of each collection and our favourite looks:
Vu Ta Linh (Hanoi) - ‘Primal’
Linh’s collection comes down to the purest expression of his own emotions through form and fabric. Each and every spur of spontaneity, connectedness, destructiveness, and every half-finished thought, is interpreted through a controlled disarray of nomad-chic designs. Rustic charm transmits through silk, brocade and linen, with torn cuts and lints on display. His use of colors is warm and comforting - a poetic verse of russet, persimmon and morning blue.
Truong Thanh Truc (Saigon)
A debut collection from the famed model and catwalk director, inspired by sophisticated ladies on Nguyen Hue boulevards. A sensual display of minimalism in black and white, models walked out holding takeaway coffees and riding segways, reminiscent of the iconic opening scene in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. An Audrey Hepburn-esque update on ‘classic chic’, these designs took our minds to a sunny, summery Saigon afternoon.
Thu Madelin (Hanoi) - ‘We Can Do It’
Inspired by the uniforms of the working class, elements like plastic boots, overalls and reflective stripes stand out in Thu’s aesthetic. Combined with neon blasts straight from the 80s, this collection was sporty-chic, full of glam and glitter.
Nguyen Hoang Tu (Saigon) - ‘The First’
An explosion of code-breaking, norm-defying outfits fit for the cool club kids and gothic youth, bordering on fetish. Femme fatales, weekend warriors and a playful juxtaposition of colors. Tu loudly calls on the youth to take charge and be bold enough to change their own lives.
Anh Tuyet (Saigon) - ‘The Egyptian Riverhemp season’
Known as ‘hoa điên điển’ in Vietnamese, these are a type of flowers born of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, and normally used as a vegetable ingredient in everyday dishes.
Tuyet’s collection is all about the ao dai, a celebration of mother and sisterhood - the women in the designer’s family, as well as a classic silhouette of a bygone era. Modern details combine the front of ao ba ba - traditional southern Vietnamese blouse - to the ao dai. Embroideries of the ‘hoa điên điển’ feature throughout the collection, an obvious homage to the designer’s hometown. Pristine white and dark brown combine with classic accessories the conical hat (nón lá) and chains of pearls.
Ngo Thai Bao Loan (Hanoi)
A collection inspired by spiral ladders, executed in the frills of the design. A feast of lush colors all drawn from nature: beige, red and black. Minimal in design, deconstructed shirts, ‘mom pants’ from the 70s, plus dashes of punk and funky, checkered t-shirts.
Tom Trandt (Moi Dien, Saigon) - ‘Pain’
A poetic investigation of pain and heartbreak, spiritually and physically, translated via torn fabrics reassembled. The dominant silhouette is of clothes engulfing the whole body, protecting us from the world whenever we feel unsafe. The materials used by Tom are lo-fi, and rough to the touch. As per usual, Moi Dien's colors are an abstract representation of feelings and emotions, like patches or strokes in modern paintings.
Phuc Le (Saigon) - ‘Don’t Be Shy’
Futuristic urban jungle warriors: military-inspired, camouflage patterns, combat boots, bomber jackets. An assertive statement calling for self-expression and conquering the world.
Collaboration: Trang Khieu - Maison An Dinh - Mia Nguyen - Mi Dupz - Kim TR
Inspired by the series ‘Ballad of Sexual Dependency’ by American photographer Nan Goldin, this collectioncaptures moments of intimacy, loneliness, and the conflicting sensations of youthful love. Models came out as dark lolita’s with smeared lipstick and frizzy hair, characters from a twisted fairy tale hiding in the beauty of late night shadows, and in colors that echoed a David Lynch noir.
Words by Quyen Hoang, Jon Aspin
Photos by Tuan Tran, Dat Pham